The Fendi Spring/Summer 2018 Ready-to-Wear collection, now fully documented on Vogue Runway, stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi's collaborative genius. This wasn't just a collection; it was a culmination of decades of shared vision, a final flourish before Lagerfeld's passing, imbued with the brand's signature Roman elegance and a playful modernity that resonated deeply with the fashion world. Examining the lookbook reveals a multifaceted narrative, weaving together classic Fendi elements with fresh, innovative design choices, creating a collection that remains remarkably relevant even years later.
The Roman Heritage Reimagined:
Fendi's identity is intrinsically linked to Rome, its history, and its artistry. This collection explicitly showcases this connection, not through overt historical references, but through a subtle infusion of Romanesque aesthetics into the contemporary silhouettes. The color palette, for example, hints at the warm tones of Roman stone and the vibrant hues of Italian frescoes. Earthy neutrals like beige, cream, and terracotta are juxtaposed with bolder shades of emerald green, sapphire blue, and fiery red, creating a sophisticated and evocative range.
The materials themselves tell a story. The luxurious leathers, a Fendi hallmark, are presented in various textures and finishes, from supple calfskin to richly grained leather, reflecting the opulent craftsmanship of Roman artisans. The use of delicate silks and sheer fabrics introduces a lightness and fluidity, contrasting with the structured tailoring of other pieces. This interplay of textures and materials is crucial in creating the collection's visual depth and complexity.
The signature Fendi "Peekaboo" bag, a modern classic, is reimagined in a multitude of variations. From classic iterations in luxurious leather to more playful versions featuring vibrant colors and unique hardware, the bag serves as a microcosm of the collection's duality: respect for tradition and embrace of innovation. The intricate detailing on the bags, including subtle stitching and unique hardware, highlights the meticulous craftsmanship that lies at the heart of the Fendi brand.
A Playful Exploration of Silhouettes:
The silhouettes in the Fendi SS18 collection are both classic and contemporary. Tailored pantsuits, a recurring theme, are updated with modern twists, such as cropped lengths, wide-leg cuts, and unexpected color combinations. The classic trench coat is reimagined in lightweight fabrics and bold colors, while the iconic Fendi knitwear is presented in a variety of styles, from delicate cardigans to chunky, oversized sweaters.
The collection features a range of dresses, from flowing maxi dresses to sleek, body-con styles. Many of the dresses incorporate intricate details, such as delicate lacework, ruffles, and embellishments, while maintaining a sense of effortless elegance. The use of contrasting textures and fabrics within a single garment further adds to the collection's visual interest. For instance, a silk camisole might be layered under a structured blazer, creating a sophisticated yet relaxed look.
The inclusion of playful elements, such as oversized bows, whimsical prints, and unexpected color blocking, adds a youthful energy to the collection. These elements, while seemingly frivolous, are carefully integrated into the overall design, preventing the collection from feeling overly serious or stuffy. This balance between sophistication and playfulness is a hallmark of Fendi's design philosophy, and it's perfectly encapsulated in the SS18 collection.
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